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  1. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    I'm with Rod on the rakeing the rig back front. It allows your weight to stay over the floatier part of the board and gives you more distance from the rig to help you counter balance. Rig up right and your more unstable and forced further forwards when you step round. Fundamentally you want to keep your arms straight and rotate the rig around you. It goes back you go forwards, the rig goes out you go out the other side.

    The biggest single thing that mad ethe most difference to my tacking was exxagerate looking into the turn when you start to carve. Then when you change sides exaggerate looking the other way.

  2. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    My tacks are best described as "if I don't fall in it was a success"...probably because I just don't tack often enough. When I do dedicate a part of a session to forcing myself to tack, I have a greatly increased success rate when I go around the mast earlier rather than later. I aim to go around the mast before the board is dead into wind and whilst it still has good forward speed. I agree totally with the "sheet out" advice and I move my back hand to a point in between the harness lines early on in the process to ensure I do not pull the rig in. I think the problem with sheeting in is that if the tack is left until the nose is into wind, and the sail is fully sheeted in, it becomes far too easy to pull the rig over onto myself.
    Another variation in tacking advice from the various gurus is whether or not you get low before you step around the mast foot. I get far better results by standing tall. I think this does 2 things. First it reduces the distance most of my frame takes to step around from one side to the other, and second I have no leverage to enable me to pull on the mast ( which results in falling off the front of the board).

  3. #10
    Senior Member Duncan Adam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    I need to practice a bit more on the wave kit, as I'm used to doing on the slalom but only down to the 100ltr.
    2018 Sessions: Speed/Slalom 03, B&J/Wave 02, SUP/WindSUP 00
    2017 Sessions: Speed/Slalom 12, B&J/Wave 09, SUP/WindSUP 01
    2016 Sessions: Speed/Slalom 20, B&J/Wave 23, SUP/WindSUP 03

  4. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Another good thing about sheeting out is it forces you to get weight over centreline. If you sheet in you will be in trouble as soon as the pull shuts off - unless you are seriously quick. With his vid rod has proved that his helmet really is blue. And that he can tack fast. Keeping the rig away at all times is important. Personally I also "oppose" when jumping by swinging rig forwards as I go back. As noted in another thread I believe wavespots can fool you into heading too far upwind on the inside tack due to the angle of the wave. So go even earlier. (No great tacker myself but getting better all the time.)
    Last edited by boards_Tomas; 25th January 2015 at 07:29 PM.

  5. #12
    Super Moderator Arf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    I'm not very good at tacking the 72L, but I do try them as often as possible and the key to all the good ones I've had is to get the sail weightless and back and carve hard off the heels when there's still plenty of speed. It's not so much stepping round the mast and doing 180 degrees with your body but more like 90 degrees with your body and the board turns under you to make up the rest.
    I can get through them all and pretty quickly, but my problem is making a getaway without nosediving or missing the boom when I grab with my back hand on the new side.
    I used to sheet in before initiating to get the board turning but that was folly as it leaves you in an outboard position. Getting a few right showed that the whole manouvre feels quick and seamless and there's no power in the sail at any point till the exit.
    * -Scourge of the Seven Seas-*

  6. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Ringkøbing fjord denmark
    What mistakes i often see:
    People is carving in a big Curve to slow.
    Waiting for the board to slow down before getting to New tack.
    either getting the sail forward While they are on the way to the New tack or getting the sail foward to slow.

    What you want to do:
    Fast Curve with your body over the board and your feets out of the straps.
    Go fast around the mast While the board is still planing.
    Stay low with the sail until your are in placer, than throw the sail forward by straighen your front arm away from your self over the board and towards the nose. Sheet hard in with the back hand and Lean your body back.
    Overshetting the sail for faster rotation can help.

  7. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Heaven can wait, I'm in Paradise
    I spent a couple of light wind sessions sorting out my fast tack and am/was pretty happy with it with a good success rate but I still have a few issues to sort out.
    1. Carving to slow that the board drops off the plane.
    2. Then, scissoring the board while sheeting in hard until the foot of the sail is lapping at my ankle.
    I will have to try carving at full belt and then sheeting out before initiating the tack.....

    I found standing tall and keeping the rig away while shifting my body weight to my front foot (at the mast base) helps with the fast pivot around in one movement

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