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  1. #8
    Senior Member
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    So what I've done is just make an easier escape for the fin past the screws, and especially the front screw since this is were the fin wants to rip out. I used a flat wood file to remove some material just below the point on the fin base where the screw contacts the fin. The indent in the fin still has enough edge for screw to give some hold. (Users of plastic fins may not need to do anything to help the fin rip out past the screw.)

    I furthermore added three layers of packing tape on the opposite side of the base to get a snug fit. I believe this gives enough friction to hold the fins in place during normal sailing and a bit more. It's only upon touching bottom or floating objects that the screws will be challenged. I have not tightened the screws much and especially not the front ones.

    The fins that I have installed this way are the Starboard twin surf 160. They're big and also very wide (front to back) close to the base and with an "overhang". Since my "box protection" is based on the idea of easier pivoting I've been worried that the rear part of the fin that goes out beyond the box will dig a hole in the board before leveraging the fin out past the rear screw or worse. I have therefore - and in anticipation of outrage from the fin(e) nerds on this forum - cut off a corner at the rear of the fin. It will probably make the board slower than a quad. And make it turn when it's supposed to go straight.
    Last edited by boards_Tomas; 20th February 2017 at 03:46 PM.
    The infamous wavewriter

  2. #9
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    many years ago I bought a fin that fitted a US box without a screw that might be adapted to slot box.

    The back of the fin had a pin like any other fin, but where the front of the fin had a screw hile it was solid with the upper surface serrated. The bottom of the fin had a hard and spongy material stuck to it.
    An additional piece was a Canard foil which you first slotted into front of the box and the underneath at the back end was serrated. The idea was then to insert the fin into the box and slide forward pressing down as it neared the Cannard Foil to both serrated edges mated.
    As far as security this was surprisingly good and I feel if I hit a rock etc the main fin would have slid back then hinged. As far as sailing the fin was rubbish.
    Maybe that idea could be adapted but might need some special bits made.

  3. #10
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    ...an idea is to think about the fin being in two parts, the Fin Area (bit in the water) and Fin Body (bit in the board). If these were separated and the Area inserted into the Body and secured at the back by a strong pin and at the back by a shear pin, that could work. All you need to do is the find a manufacturer to change their designs ;-0

  4. #11
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    Jul 2004
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    Aren't you The maker of all things?

    The starbox is as far as I can see designed so that if the fin slips back a centimeter it will be lose at the front. But when/if it slips rearwards the ideal pivotpoint on the base will move (even further) aft of the rear screw. I guess Basher can fill in extensively here as soon as he gets a chance to exit that loong wave.
    Last edited by boards_Tomas; 20th February 2017 at 03:49 PM.
    The infamous wavewriter

  5. #12
    Senior Member chrispavlo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maker View Post
    ...an idea is to think about the fin being in two parts, the Fin Area (bit in the water) and Fin Body (bit in the board). If these were separated and the Area inserted into the Body and secured at the back by a strong pin and at the back by a shear pin, that could work. All you need to do is the find a manufacturer to change their designs ;-0
    FCS 2
    https://youtu.be/_c-jhKa30nA

  6. #13
    Senior Member boards_Geko's Avatar
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    Mar 2005
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    399
    Not so much prevention but I've found a quick fix solution if you do strip the screws. It's sort of semi permanent in as much that you can't move the fins easily once done but I never moved them much once I'd found the best position anyway!

    The secret is to use a PU sealant like Tiger seal. A line of this stuff across the top of the fin then drop it in the box and leave it for 24hrs and you're done. This is the strongest rubbery substance know to man! However, some boiling water and a bit of leverage means that you can remove it if you wanted to.

    I've had one of my twin fins fixed like this for nearly two years with no problem even when running them up the beach to outrun the notorious Shoreham dump.
    Geko

    Slowly racking the planet!
    http://www.vehicle-racking-systems.co.uk/
    or email me on:
    vrsystems@hotmail.co.uk

  7. #14
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    A quick search indicates that tiger seal is about the same as tec7 which I suggested in my opening post. I have used a tiny bit of epoxy on my pozo board and the fins sit tight even if I routinely shove the board up the shelve of rolling stones at high tide by jumping off and pushing on the mast. It obviously doesn't allow for changing or moving fins though and the fear is that not only the boxes but the board may be damaged upon hard impact.

    With my new board the ability to experiment is still valued. I may add one tenth of a gram of tec7 though on the opposite side of where the front screw sits or down in the box and then back off the tension on the front screw even more. The weakest part of slot boxes is obviously the part that holds the screw. And the bigger the screw and its insert, the less "plastic" there will be left around to hold it in place.
    Last edited by boards_Tomas; 21st February 2017 at 10:07 AM.
    The infamous wavewriter

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