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  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    2

    Older North Warp rigging

    I've got a 2009 North Warp(8m) and when rigging it i can never seem to get the top cam to stay on the mast, it used to rig fine until I replaced a batten, one of them broke, and the top cam seem to be about 3mm short of the mast so when i try to rotate the cams they don't want to go round and eventually the top cam will just come off the mast. Does anyone know how to fix this?
    someone suggested i buy camber spacers but I'm not sure if where to get them and what difference they'll make.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    3,876
    Assuming all the battens...including your new one....are the correct length to reach the end of the batten pocket and can be sufficiently tensioned to at least remove any panel wrinkles, I doubt your problem has anything to do with the battens. The exception to that might be if the new batten does not have the right profile.

    If all is correct with the battens the only way to adjust the cams is with spacers which you should be able to get from any windsurf shop. Most brands use the same type of spacer and they usually come in 2 thicknesses.
    Since some work has been done on the sail replacing a batten I suggest you check all of the cams to make sure the correct cam is in the correct position and that they are the right way round. North cams each have a letter allocated to them and are marked with the side that faces the top of the mast. I would also remove any existing spacers so you are starting with no spacers in any cam. Once you are sure all of that is correct and have purchased some spacers, rig and test the degree of cam tension for each cam. Note if you increase tension on one cam you can alter tension on the others so you need to mess around a bit getting it right. The normal situation should be one spacer in each cam if you using the North Platinum mast.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
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    692
    if you consider each cam / batten is pushing the sail away from the mast my guess is too much pressure in the lower cams compounded by none in the top. you should be able to get a feel for the pressure by pushing against the camber as if to rotate it.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,247
    I have some spare spacers if you want, pay a bit for postage.
    Boards: F2 Gorilla 76, Tabou Quadster 86, Fanatic Triwave 95, Starboard Kombatwave 96, F2 Stoke 115, JPFreeRace 125, Sails: Gaastra Poison 4.2, North Hero 4.2, North Ice 4.7, Simmer Icon 5.3, Gaastra Cross 6, Ezzy Elite 6.1, Tushingham Storm 6.5, Severne Turbo 7.5

  5. #5
    Junior Member
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    Nov 2017
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    How can I reduce pressure on the lower cams, would more downhaul make a difference or do I need to do some work on the cams themselves.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    3,876
    With hypercams there is a fixed distance between the inner luff seam ( against which the small end of the cam sits) and the front of the luff tube. That distance is bridged by the cam, the mast and any additional spacers fitting between the inner luff seam and the small end of the cam. The overall length of the cam, the diameter of the mast at the point the cam sits on it, plus any spacers, together determine the degree of pressure of the cam on the mast. The only other factor involved is the amount of mast curve created by the downhaul. All of which explains why it is really best to use the recommended mast with a cammed sail.

    I have owned North cammed sails where it has been necessary initially to reduce the length of one or more cams to avoid excessive cam pressure........achieved by filing down the small end a few mm. It should not be necessary on an older sail however where the luff sleeve will have fully broken in and stretched.

    Have you checked that each cam position has the correct cam and that they are in the right way up?

    Are you rigging as per Norths recommended method?

    Is the new batten a cam batten....if so, is it the right length and profile and is it properly adjusted?

    Alternatively, is the batten on the top cam that now appears not to sit on the mast also broken?

    Just seems strange that all was well until you ( you or a sail loft?) replaced a broken batten. Need more details!

  7. #7
    Senior Member mark62's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    West Kirby
    Posts
    384
    Hi DPerrin.

    the Warp F2009 was one of my favourite years for warps, light, soft feel and good cam rotation.

    The bottom two cams need lots of pressure (to had profile depth and to keep the profile stable when over powered). The third cam needs a little less pressure, and the top cam (the one your having an issue with) needs hardly any pressure.

    I would advise against putting a spacer on the top cam. Instead, remove cam #3 (the one below the top cam) and a couple of mm off (the batten end, NOT the mast end). This will allow cam #4 to sit on the mast with a bit more pressure.

    When you gybe/tack, cam rotation always starts with the top cam#4, then cam #3, cam #2 and finally cam #1.

    Unlike Norths freerace 3 cam sails, Warps "need" to be downhauled to the max. You can even go past the vti dot too.

    p.s. If you have not already checked, make sure all cams are not upside down, it's easily done by mistake.

    good luck

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