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Thread: Light wind gybe

  1. #1
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    Light wind gybe

    Last tSunday I had a nice sail on 125 JP FreeRce and first time with 7.5m twin-cam. I was pleased, amazed, that sail got me going in such light winds.. All gybes came off but many were quite messy as I lost speed. I kept board flat, beared off to build up speed etc but quickly lost it during turn. I don't need basic advice on gybing, but advice specific to sailing big kit mostly on apparent wind. Thinking about advice on gybing wave kit in light winds and not planing would also be handy (no, I cannot tack).
    Boards: F2 Gorilla 76, Tabou Quadster 86, Fanatic Triwave 95, Starboard Kombatwave 96, F2 Stoke 115, JPFreeRace 125, Sails: Gaastra Poison 4.2, North Hero 4.2, North Ice 4.7, Simmer Icon 5.3, Gaastra Cross 6, Ezzy Elite 6.1, Tushingham Storm 6.5, Severne Turbo 7.5

  2. #2
    On bigger kit you are usually sailing in lighter winds, and so the difference between the real wind and the apparent wind is greater.

    This means as you lose speed in the turn the wind direction in the sail changes and the sail can stall, so sheeting angles are different for big kit sailing than for, say, wave boards.

    The way to get better at this is simply to practice more, because your existing gybing technique should adapt to the new gear. Using a bigger rig takes some getting used to because it is much heaver than a wave sail, plus the cams don't allow the sail to depower in the same way.

    The tip to planing gybing in marginal wind is to pump into the gybe to help maintain speed (and don't sink the board tail)...
    If you drop off the plane then so be it and as long as you get the board through the turn you can then pump your way out of it again on the other tack.


    Generally, a lighter wind gybe is a step gybe where you alter feet before the rig flip. This can apply to a wave board as well as for slalom gear.
    Now back in the UK.

  3. #3
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    I always step gybe, just cannot get my head around sailing with feet in 'wrong position'. Slalom guys I see always step gybe but suppose they choose gear to ensure they are always top-powered. I can gybe ok when well or comfortably powered, it is the very light winf where there is the problem. I'll try the pumping into gybe.
    Boards: F2 Gorilla 76, Tabou Quadster 86, Fanatic Triwave 95, Starboard Kombatwave 96, F2 Stoke 115, JPFreeRace 125, Sails: Gaastra Poison 4.2, North Hero 4.2, North Ice 4.7, Simmer Icon 5.3, Gaastra Cross 6, Ezzy Elite 6.1, Tushingham Storm 6.5, Severne Turbo 7.5

  4. #4
    Senior Member Silicon Beach's Avatar
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    For me, the key thing is to flip the rig sooner than I would when well powered with a 4.7m. A LOT sooner - when you are still moving with some speed and before the apparent wind leaves you stranded. Also throw it round with much more oomph. If you don't then you get stranded with no wind - in fact the hole in the wind often feels like 'negative' wind - back wind - wind from the wrong direction etc

    ps this is for a gybe you enter planing, feet in the straps, and then lose speed ... it's different if you're not planing - that requires a different style of light wind gybe.
    -----------------------------
    Currently writing the World's first Windsurfing Novel: 'Too Close to the Wind' - watch this space!
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silicon Beach View Post
    For me, the key thing is to flip the rig sooner than I would when well powered with a 4.7m. A LOT sooner - when you are still moving with some speed and before the apparent wind leaves you stranded. Also throw it round with much more oomph. If you don't then you get stranded with no wind - in fact the hole in the wind often feels like 'negative' wind - back wind - wind from the wrong direction etc

    ps this is for a gybe you enter planing, feet in the straps, and then lose speed ... it's different if you're not planing - that requires a different style of light wind gybe.
    I find pushing the big sail round in light wind has the opposite effect,it acts like a break as I sail so much on apparent wind. What is non -plsning wave board technique? I sometimes vwibbke through to a view first position then usually fall in as I flip rig
    Boards: F2 Gorilla 76, Tabou Quadster 86, Fanatic Triwave 95, Starboard Kombatwave 96, F2 Stoke 115, JPFreeRace 125, Sails: Gaastra Poison 4.2, North Hero 4.2, North Ice 4.7, Simmer Icon 5.3, Gaastra Cross 6, Ezzy Elite 6.1, Tushingham Storm 6.5, Severne Turbo 7.5

  6. #6
    Non-planing gybing is usually a fare gybe.

    The rig is used to scissor the board round but the key thing is to keep your weight central over the board and it's a wobbly process on a waveboard.
    Now back in the UK.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Graemef's Avatar
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    Contrary to what our ill learned friend points out above a 'flare' gybe can only be truly effective with a centreboard about which the fin can pivot. However one tip that will assist light wind turns on boards with just a fin is to swing the rig further to weather and only flip it one you come out clew first.

    Flare gybes on boards with centreboard do foot steer by applying weight to the windward rear rail whilst swinging the rig to windward, which sets the angles at opposites so the board just pivots round in a really tight arc, executed well they are as satisfying as a neatly accomplished carve gybe.

    Cue another thousand word essay from a self confessed none user of big sails in light wind..
    Last edited by Graemef; 24th April 2018 at 12:09 PM.

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